John O'Groats to Lands End Charity Cycle Challenge

Day 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17

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Day 1
1 June 2008

We left John O' Groats, after having our picture taken at the land mark sign post, at 8.35 am and cycled for 12 miles without seeing a single vehicle on the minor roads. We stopped at the Grey Cairns of Camster - a 5000 year old burial tomb which we crawled in to to inspect, no bodies found.

The next stop was for a late breakfast on the coast at Lybster, where our breakfast was soup - that's all that was available. Funny I thought breakfast north of the border was porridge!

Bruce Elkins

Bruce Elkins
Director
baelkins@cwfellowes.com

We continued on the coast road A9, and after a couple of big hills stopped at Helmsdale for a fish and chip lunch at Le Mirage, which was voted one of the six best fish and chip shops in the UK by Clarissa Dickson Wright.

The route carried on the A9 all afternoon to Clashmore to meet the van for picking up.

We had ridden a total of 87 miles on Day one. We drove north to stay at Carbisdale Castle on Kyle of Sutherland, near Culrain, for a good nights rest.

Day 2
2 June

Drove back to Clashmore to start cycling at 9.35 a.m. after a continental breakfast at the Castle. Got onto minor roads as soon as possible and through Tain and via Nigg (quiet place now but major oil rig fabrication terminal in the 1970/80's). Crossed onto Black Isle on Nigg Ferry and made a bakers stop in Cromarty. Headed into Inverness and picked up B road to wards Loch Ness where we continued to the head of the Loch and stopped at Dores.

There, was the Rockness Festival being set up for this coming weekend where thousands head to.

Continued on east side of the Loch on minor road with a few big climbs to Fort Augustus. I must have broken a chain link on a climb and therefore from Fort Augustus we had to 'limp' the last 20 miles to Spean Bridge for our rendevous with our support driver, David.

99.5 miles travelled today and our backsides knew it!! Drove to Glen Nevis Youth Hostel and we were then very late getting food.

Day 3
3 June

7.30 a.m. breakfast and then straight out into the drizzle and cloud to head straight up Ben Nevis. Heads down as there was no point in hanging around as we could not see a thing! Reached top in just under 2.5 hours, very misty and cold damp - lot of snow on summit still.

The sun finally burnt of the mist. The 30 miles cycle on the B roads, along Caledonian Canal had magnificent views across Loch Linnie.

We kept heading south on the A82 to Glen Coe on the edge of Loch Leven.

Very tough day – legs aching.

Day 4
4 June

Left Glen Coe YH and cycled uphill on A82 for 3 miles followed by as long drag straight into a headwind which made progess slow. (but at least the sun was shining).

Somewhat hairy in places with large lorries passing but beautiful scenery. Lunch stop at Crianlarich railway station tea house for bacon and egg rolls and tea.... We then tracked the West Highland Way (a popular long walk way in Scotland) to Loch Lomond.

The whole afternoon was then cycling alongside Loch Lomond in sunshine and included a stop for an ice cream. We arrived at the south end of the loch earlier than expected so we spent 45 minutes basking in the sun outside a Macdonalds at Balloch.

Cycled 67 miles today with very bumpy roads in places and all our backsides very tender but compensated by the beautiful weather. Drove to the YH on the other side of Loch Lomond to be welcomed by thousands of midges but a good hostel with our own room!

Day 5
5 June

Drove back to Balloch and jumped on cycles to head south towards Glasgow.

Just before Erskine Bridge, Dave suffered a puncture so we had a quick rest whilst he replaced an inner tube.

Headed down A726 past Glasgow Airport through Paisley heading for East Kilbride. Roads very busy in places so we used the cycle path where we had a minor accident when Dave caught his sleeve in a hanging broken fence, tumbled over and I ploughed into him! Thankfully no major damage was done.

Stopped for bacon and egg rolls for lunch and then from East Kilbride continued south on the A727 to Strathaven, onto the B7086 and then the B7078 running parallel with the M74.

Pub stop in Crawfordjohn for refuelling before climbing the last 7 miles, in the rain, up into Wanlockhead on the B797

68 miles today with a tough finish.

We walked 100 metres to the highest pub in Scotland for dinner and whilst in the pub had a big thunderstorm and downpour.

Day 6
6 June


It had not seemed as high as some earlier days in Scotland but the next morning we set out and cycled downhill for 5 miles!

We joined the A76 and made good progress to Dumfries for another bacon rolls and tea stop.

As we set off Dave felt a problem with his back tyre which had badly bulged. Luckily, Halfords was immediately across the river and after a new tyre purchase we were soon on our way.

Picked up minor B roads out of Dumfries alongside the Solway Firth, visiting Brow Well where Robbie Burns spent his last few days in life. Final lunch stop in Annan, Scotland, then onto Gretna. Reached the border at 2.40 p.m.

Scotland had been kind to us with good weather but those bloomin' midges are a nuisance!

Into England and headed south on A7 to Carlisle for another brief refuel stop. As we left, Dave's front tyre exploded, another quick trip to a bike shop and we were back on the road.

Out of Carlisle heading for the Lake District but time was creeping by......... We then hit the hills in the north of the Lake District.

A long day reaching Derwent Water Youth Hostel at 7.45 p.m. following 101 miles. We had hoped to stop at Keswick Youth Hostel but that was full!

Day 7
7 June

No cheating so jumped on bikes for 6 mile ride to Southwaite to start the Scafell Pike walk.

Changed in the van in to walking gear and climbed straight up the valley to Great End then on to the summit in just less than 2 hours. The visibility was generally good but low cloud. A good number of people at the top. Photographs taken then headed down via Esk Hause and Angle Tarn (where 2 or 3 people were swimming!) and down into Langdale.

A pint at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Pub as we were early for rendezvous with Dave our van support, before changing back into cycle kit and 32 mile ride to Arnside via Ambleside and Windermere.

A good hostel and early arrival in time for evening meal at the Youth Hostel. Also back in the land of a mobile signal to make calls. The hostel is a former Victorian girl’s school and we stayed in the 'Headmistress Study.'

Day 8
8 June


Now in Albert Dock, Liverpool. Had flat tyre. Today have done 67 miles, so far in total we have done 557 miles and only been drenched once!

Tough day ahead tomorrow down to Snowdonia.

Day 9
9 June


We left Albert Dock Youth Hostel to catch the 9.30 a.m. Mersey ferry across to Seacombe near Birkenhead. Then we headed south on the A550 to Queen's Ferry where we experienced horrendous traffic and were welcomed into north Wales before midday.

An early lunch was enjoyed at Carol's kitchen in Mold, before setting off six miles uphill to Denbigh - for a further tea and cake stop. Continued on the A435 to Pentrefoelas where we were treated to big rolling hills and a photo stop at the highest pub in Wales.

The next part of our adventure took us on the A5 to the famous Betws -Y-Coed and an ice cream stop with a photo at the Ugly House before a final climb to Pen-Y-Pas Youth Hostel.

Stopping finally for the day after 78 hilly miles (or humpy bumpy miles as we have begun to call them).

Looking forward to climbing Snowdon tomorrow!

Day 10
10 June

Up at the usual 7 a.m. but cafe at Capel Cuprig was not open for breakfast until 8.30 a.m. so we enjoyed the morning sunshine.

Following breakfast we drove back to Pen-Y-Pass to start the walk up Snowdon at 9.45 a.m. and had a beautiful walk to the top in 1½ hours. I phoned the office at 11.30 a.m. to say hello from the top - wonderful views but a cold easterly wind.

We soon set off for the long walk down the Watkins path to the lowest starting point for Snowdon walks so it took us longer to get down again! The cafe at the bottom was closed so we changed into our cycling gear and left at 2.30 p.m. for a spin down to Beddgelert for a late lunch.

Very hot day so sat inside for a while and following lunch headed uphill (why does it always work out that you have to go up after eating?!) on the A4085 through Penyndeudraeth, onto the A487 and then the A470 past an old nuclear power station at Trawsfynydd. Stopped in the village for an ice cream which gave us the energy for a fast 13 mile finish south on good roads to Dalgellau.

Total cycle miles 32 today and superb weather again. Ironically the Youth Hostel at Dalgellau was full so had to then drive back to Trawsfyndd to an excellent small hostel.

Day 11
11 June

Left Dolgalleu at 9.30 a.m. after a self catered breakfast back at the hostel, I did the shopping from the local village shop!

Straight onto A470 uphill for some big climbs so needed a bacon roll and tea stop after around 1½ hours. Then got onto the quiet B4518 road (supposed to be closed at one point). We then recrossed the A470 through Staylittle with some more big climbs alongside a reservoir before reaching Llanidloes for lunch in the Great Oak Cafe. The cakes were so large that all I managed was an apricot filled flapjack!

We then rejoined the A470 for yet another climb before heading downhill on a fast run to Rayadar for a final tea and cake stop of the day. The town centre had come to a halt for a large funeral procession which by now was about 4 p.m. Re-energised we had a fast final run to Crossgates to meet David with the 'Abacus' van at 4.30 p.m.

Total miles - a tough 58 miles but managed to keep the average mph for the day at just over 13mph.

We drove off route for a short drive to Neuadd Farm Country Guest House at Penybont where Peter and Jackie Longley had kindly donated our stay as their contribution to our fundraising efforts. We could not stay there without climbing 'Pete's Hill' although Dave Jordan had a chill out and fell asleep while we were out walking and visiting the Cefnylls Church dating back to the 11th Century.

Day 12
12 June

Woke up to heavy rain but it had cleared by breakfast and drove back to Crossgates to set off towards Llandrindod Wells in dry but fresh winds.

Continued on A483 to Builth Wells and then on to A470 to Llyswen for a tea and cake stop. Headed onto B4560 for a long uphill climb to Llangorse lakes cycling between the Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons. Excellent view of Pen-Y -Fan.

After a photo stop we continued on to Gilwen where we stopped as Dave had a tyre problem again. A brand new tyre had only lasted around 400 miles! Having got cold and starting to get hungry we headed towards Crickhowel and then on A4077 to Abergavenny for lunch stop and new tyre purchase.

The sun came back out for lunch and we were soon off heading uphill on a long climb (again!) up B4233. We found out that the route is part of a Welsh International Grand Prix Cycle Race this weekend - 103 mile race. We were in Monmouth after some tough hill climbs just before 5 p.m. Total of 62 miles.

Day 13
13 June

Left Monmouth in sunshine at just after 9 a.m. and headed onto the A466 along the edge of the Forest of Dean. As we approached Tintern we met a runner running 'End to End'. Stopped and took a photo with him and he told us that he and his wife had been running/walking End to End since January 29th! Apparently they run/walk for 2 weeks and then head home to Preston for a week before starting again!! We then met his wife at Tintern Abbey who explained more about the logistics, they are writing up a daily blog at www.1c2c.org

We continued to bypass Chepstow and onto the 'old' Severn Bridge (now M48). After photo and crossing the bridge we headed immediately south on to B4055 to Bristol stopping again at Clifton Suspension Bridge. No cafe facilities, so pressed on until we found a pub in Barrow Gurney on the B3130 called the Prince's Motto having completed 40 miles. Good lunch and collected £22.00 in donations.

From the pub we had a long climb uphill (again!) on A38 past Bristol Airport which was hairy in places with large lorries speeding by. Having crossed over the M5 we turned off for another long climb up to Burrington Combe in the Mendips followed by a fast downhill run into Cheddar Gorge by 3.00 p.m., our earliest finish yet! Total of 56 miles.

As we were cold and early we treated ourselves to cream teas.

Now back in England having travelled through 3 counties today. Dave arrived with the van as scheduled at 5.00 p.m. and we headed off to friends near Wells for a fine evening meal - thanks Aden & Lori for fuelling us so wonderfully ready for a long slog to Oakhampton tomorrow.

Day 14
14 June

Enjoyed bacon, egg and toast breakfast courtesy of Aiden and Laurie before bidding them and children goodbye just after 9 a.m. to drive back to the Cheddar Gorge.

We had an extra cyclist today as Damien Carter from Lloyds Bank jumped on a train with his bike to Bath on Friday and then cycled over to Cheddar. We left the Gorge just after 10 a.m. and headed onto the B3151 to Wedmore and Westhay, through to the A361 which we joined all the way to Taunton. Relatively flat and fast but stopped for an early lunch and then joined the A38 through Wellington, running parallel with the M5.

We headed on to minor roads and picked up the Grand Western Canal Path which we followed for 6 miles to near Tiverton. Into, Tiverton for refreshment break and then on to A396 and A3072 towards Bickleigh up a monster hill! (Up yet again after eating!)

An easy morning on the Somerset levels had become a difficult afternoon in Devon and we continued up and down some long inclines and declines all the way to Crediton. Then, joined the A377 and back on to the A3072 where we stopped at Bow for an emergency ice cream stop following a big climb. Into the final 10 miles of the day joining B3215 to Okehampton and just to finish us off, we had an 'interesting' steep climb up to Okehampton Youth Hostel.

Total of 83 miles, cumulative miles now 926.

Beautiful weather again today and no breakdowns.

A very tough but enjoyable day spent with our guest cyclist. Damien enjoyed it so much he decided to continue with us for Sunday.

Day 15
15 June

5 cyclists left Okehampton Youth Hostel around 9.30 a.m. after delayed cooked breakfast as the chef at the Youth Hostel had overslept.

We headed straight onto the Granite Way cycle route (disused railway line) towards Launceston which gave us a 5 mile flat start to the day. We headed on to some minor roads (former A30) through small Devon villages arriving at our final County of Cornwall just after 11 a.m. Some long climbs again and into Launceston cycling up another monster to get up to the town centre in search of a cafe! Sunday morning and the centre was very quiet so it was a visit to Somerfield before setting off due west up a very long climb out on to a longish ridge with superb views, passing Davidstow Creamery, before joining the A395 and then the A39. We soon skirted Camelford and happened upon the British Cycling Musuem as we joined a B road to head for Rock.

We were, by now, desperate for a cup of tea. There was no cafe at the Museum but the owner made us mugs of tea for 50p each to drink whilst we had a look around the museum. There were hundreds of items of fascinating cycling memorabilia but time did not allow a full viewing. The owners had items dating back to 1818 but the museum is tired and overloaded. We were advised that they do not receive any grants and it was clear that it is difficult to maintain the museum as a small enterprise.

At Rock we took the ferry across to Padstow and then climbed out of Padstow up to St Merryn to finish the day.

55 miles travelled today in fine weather although a chilly wind when not in the sun and going downhill.

Damien bid his farewells from his weekend excursion and David (North), our van support drove him to Bodmin railway station to make his way home.

Day 16
16 June

Short day ahead planned as we wanted to enjoy the last 2 days in Cornwall.

Self catered full works for breakfast and set off from St Merryn along the coast road and into an enormous climb in the Vale of Mawgan, a real lung buster so early in the morning. Complaints were heard all round - not another ****** hill! In and out of Newquay but very dirty and scruffy so decided to push on to Perranporth for lunch stop.

Reached there and all consumed first cornish pasty of the week and enjoyed the continuing sunshine.

As usual we had a big climb straight after lunch out on coast road to St Agnes and Porthtowan - enormous hills but again superb views. On into Portreath for ice cream near the beach before tackling final big hill up to Gwelan Mor Holiday Village where we are staying for the last 2 nights.

Accommodation superb and very kindly donated by John's brother in law, Bill Haslam. Only 33 miles completed but the legs knew it! Last 30 miles along the north coast line to come tomorrow. Total miles travelled now 1015 plus 3 peaks and we are still enjoying it - thank goodness that we have had glorious weather but not too hot due to mainly easterly winds.

Day 17
17 June - The Final Frontier

Mission Accomplished. Total of 1049 miles cycled.

We gathered for a photo call for local press at 9.30 a.m. before setting off at 10 a.m. for the north Cornish coastal road (B3301) to St Ives for our last tea and cake stop. Big climb out but we were set up for the last few miles up and down at a leisurely pace to Lands End via St Just along the B3306.

Fantastic feeling to have cycled End to End also taking in the 3 Peaks and achieving over 1,000 miles of the UK terrain and wonderful scenery in generally superb weather.

Thanks are due to many people but whilst on the 'excursion' thanks in particular to David North, our support van driver for giving up his time. Thanks to John for his excellent navigation to ensure that we only cycled the miles that we had to but ensuring we avoided major roads where possible. Thanks also to Andy for the photography and Dave for supplying and fixing me with a new chain after climbing Ben Nevis following my 'mechanical' problem after the big climbs in the afternoon on the second day.

The cycle team consisted of John Mursell, Andy Gates, Dave Jordan and me. Interestingly, we are staying at lodge number 17 at Gwel an Mor Holiday Village. (highly recommended).

Time to sign off and have a couple of beers and a last supper together this evening. The guys have told me to admit that I fell off the bike twice today!

Finally, thank you for all sponsors and donations.